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Make Yourself Useful

If I told you that a bunch of recovering drug and alcohol-addicts had spent the last two weeks occupying our farmhouse, you’d probably picture a driveway littered with broken bottles, cigarette burns on the upholstered chairs, perhaps a syringe or two rolling about on the linoleum floor, abandoned after a missed toss into the wastebasket.

You wouldn’t expect to see a freshly-primed fence, a few just-planted strawberry beds, or a mowed, manicured lawn with a newly built path snaking through it. You wouldn’t expect to see young leeks and onions in the ground, or well-thinned spinach and broccoli raab growing. Probably most surprising on your walk across the grounds would be the quarter-acre of just-tilled land in the back pasture, shaped into fertilized, composted planting beds.

And yet, as I sit here typing from my post at the farmhouse window, I look out and see all of this. This past weekend marked the close of the inaugural “Fresh and Wyld Recovery” program, a two week intensive rehabilitation session that brought seven recovering addicts over from the Roaring Fork Valley for a fortnight of 12-step study, garden work, reflection and good food. And rather than indulge their old habits (aside from nicotine and coffee, of course), the participants gave us their labor for two weeks, helping to complete several projects that would have otherwise taken hundreds of paid man-hours to finish. They weren’t always enthusiastic–indeed, I’ve never seen a crew so eager for a cigarette and water break–but however slow and intermittent their labor may have been, the fact remains that they paid to come work for us.

As someone who is paid–however modestly–to do the daily work that comes with maintaing a farm, it has always fascinated me that this very work is often perscribed as therapy to people who are struggling. Fighting depression? Build a fence. Recovering alcoholic? Plant some flowers. Three years for manslaughter? Trellis a row of tomatoes. What’s particularly ironic is that a long bout of farmwork so often sends me scurrying to the yellow pages in search of therapy–a chiropractor, a masseuse, anyone to get this kink out of my spine.

What is it that farmwork–on its face repetitious and tiring, often dirty–can give to those who are sad, jilted, angry and abused? Obviously it never hurts to be outside, to get a bit of exercise and wind in your face. But it seems to me that the most valuable commodity that farmwork provides–indeed perhaps the very base of its popularity as a form of new-age therapy–is a basic sense of usefulness.

As humans, most of us will do most anything to be useful. We’ll start families, farms, and other money-and-time-suckers, all of which limit our freedom and make us accountable to hordes of other people. Tell us we’re useless–that, in modern parlance, “our services are no longer needed,” and very soon we’ll be driven to the same alcohol, drugs, and other junk that the recovering addicts were trying to purge from their systems when they rolled in two weeks ago.

To a sense of uselessness, farming provides a nice antidote. “You built this fence,” it tells you at the end of a long day. “You weeded these peas, you harvested this lettuce, you tilled this field.” If there were ever any doubt that humans are simple creatures, there is to me no proof more convincing than this fact: at the end of many days, these words are all we need.

Food Rehab

­­­For the past fourteen days, Fresh and Wyld has been hosting the Right Door treatment program, a group of seven recovering drug and alcohol addicts from the Roaring Fork Valley who used our farmhouse as the base for two weeks of therapy aimed at helping them stay sober. Our entire staff was on call during this period- especially in the kitchen. We provided breakfast, lunch, dinner and tons of snacks day in and day out.

The group arrived weary, and wary of what was to come in the packed days ahead of them. Their apprehension and fears reflected our own. When they got here, on a Sunday night, they seemed a bit resistant, and as luck would have it I was in charge of their first meal. It had been a long weekend for us in the kitchen with a Friday Night Dinner, Farmer Appreciation Dinner, and two back-to-back Sunday brunches, and to be honest, I wanted nothing to do with the kitchen that night. So I did what most tired cooks do: I reheated left overs. And delicious leftovers they were. We had tri-tip from Saturday, mashed potatoes from Friday, braised greens from Sunday, and apple crisp with gingered whipped cream from Friday as well. Sitting down with the group, ready to make forced small talk and take a quick nap with my eyes open, I watched as these tired and self-abused individuals plunged into their plates and barely looked up from start to finish. They went back for seconds and thirds, and their cheek began to regain some color. People started talking, and eating, and eating some more. For me, these were just leftovers from the weekend meals. For them, this was some of the most nutritious stuff their bodies had received in a long time.

The next two weeks brought more of the same. Appetites grew. The group started asking questions about cooking methods, organic products, and different types of grains and how they could be used. They also worked in the garden in addition to painting murals, making journals, and attending group therapy sessions. For many, the concept of planting, growing, harvesting, and cooking their own food was not an attainable or realistic one. As a cook, it was heart-warming to watch malnourished individuals harvest their own greens and then see them prepared. For me, it was a firm reminder of why I do what I do. By the end of the week, it was plain to see that participants’ moods had been lifted from their previous state by a simple change in their diet.

I have always been fairly in tune with my body and how food affects it, although I may tune out those effects from time to time. For the past five years in particular I have been conscious of using organic and local products, steering away from refined sugars, and packing my meals full of delicious and complex grains. I also tend to surround myself with people who do the same. For me, to see the effect of this food on individuals who have not been as vigilant as me (or have hardly been feeding themselves!) opened my eyes. Eating this way helped them regain their energy, cured depression, and got them excited about cooking at home on their own.

Having The Right Door program was just as therapeutic for me as it was for the participants. Although some days were stressful and others downright tiring, feeding a different demographic was good for my soul. To see people appreciate your food the way these people did–the smiles, the “thank yous”, and above all the physical and mental change­–brings me back to the heart of cooking: to nourish and love our bodies.